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Author Bob Hurlbett and his lovely wife Sarah are good friends of Richi and Annie Mantilla. Richi and Annie, as you know, are from the Bay Area and run that great PG tour outfit "Vuelo Libre". This is Bob and Sarah's account of their recent "Vuelo Libre" tour of some of Columbia's premier PG sites led by Richi and Annie! - Ed.
Half a dozen or so Colombian vultures or “chulos” marked the thermals as we soared together high above Chicamocha Canyon, just minutes from the “farm” or Vuelo Libre, headquarters for Richi and Annie Mantilla’s Vuelo Libre tours on Mesa de la Santos, forty-five minutes south of Bucaramanga, Colombia. On this, the 3rd day of our journey, Richi, Annie, Andy Palmer and I launched at 11:00 a.m. from Tumba de Aleman (the “Tomb of the German”) located on a private lot in Chicamocha Doroda, a gated community extending along the northern rim of the canyon. Randall McCormick missed the window on this day but joined us several days later in a flight from the opposite rim. At least 4,100 feet below, the Rio Chicamocha winds its way Southeastward through this impressive canyon. The panoramic view from the rim extends for hundreds of miles across towering mountain ranges and deep valleys bathed in tropical greens and blues. Across the canyon, the Chicamocha National Park extends along the southern rim. In several places raw construction marks the beginning of a new scenic tram that within a few months will carry passengers from Park headquarters into the canyon, across the river and up the opposite side to the small village of Los Santos, just a few miles west of Tumba de Aleman. Although intended for tourists, the Park Service consulted with Richi to ensure that the system can retrieve pilots from LZs along the river and carry them to launches on both rims of the canyon. A boon to commercial tandem operators, the tram, when completed, will enable pilots to fly this site several times a day. For the present, we return to Vuelo Libre by a more arduous route, a winding but paved, two-lane highway that is the main artery through the canyon connecting Bucaramanga with Bogotá, Colombia’s capital city, 9 hours or so to the south. The main LZ is a broad expanse of sand and gravel along the river. Hugo (“Ugo”), a Bucaramanga taxi driver and chauffer, drove our chase vehicle. Fly Columbia! - Photo by Sarah Hurlbett |
It’s much warmer and more arid in the canyon than at launch where early morning fog often obscured the view. Because of several days of unusual weather caused by a passing tropical storm, we learned to quickly set up and be ready for a forward launch on the grass-covered hillside that gently slopes for 50 or 60 meters before plunging over the rim. Launch windows were brief as intermittent patches of blue sky were quickly enveloped in cloud. Chicamocha is Colombia’s Grand Canyon and one of the natural wonders of this beautiful country. It so impressed my wife, Sara, and me that early the next morning (with Richi interpreting), we negotiated the purchase of two lots fronting the edge of the canyon. After striking a deal, we learned that an hour later another American arrived to make an offer on the same property. Richi and Annie subsequently bought a third contiguous lot preserving a sizeable corner of the development for paragliding. We can now launch literally from our doorsteps on almost two acres extending laterally along the rim. Into the Wind - Photo by Sarah Hurlbett We plan to call this property “Pico de una Aguila” (“Ag-ee-la”) or “Beak of the Eagle,” commemorating a clear April morning many years ago when Richi survived an eagle’s attack above the canyon rim. In apparent defense of its nest, the angry bird approached at mach speed and flew into his lines. From the sound of feathers striking Kevlar, Richi was convinced that he and his wing were about to part ways. It took his addled brain several minutes to realize that the glider remained intact and he might live to see another day. Besides, “Aguila,” is also the brand name of a famous and very tasty Colombian beer so it holds considerable sentimental value as well. Since we first met them several years ago while flying in Big Sur, Richi and his friend, Walter Langhammer, often regaled Sara and I with stories of their native land. When improving political stability under president Uribe paved the way for flying tours to the Bucaramanga region, we promptly signed on. With Andy and Randall, we had the good fortune to be part of the first of the Vuelo Libre tours. Arriving on January 2, 2006, we enjoyed eight full days of flying from a variety of sites that are individually distinctive but similarly beautiful. This area is a recreational paradise that boasts many more flying sites than we had time to sample. We began our adventure at Ruitoque (Roo-tow-kee), a 4 or 5-mile long ridge site that overlooks the city of Bucaramanga, capital of the State of Santander. Also Richi’s hometown, Bucaramanga is a sophisticated metropolis with a population of a million or more. It’s spread across a broad plain framed by 12,000’+ peaks overlooking a broad river valley, home to cattle ranches and coffee, sugar cane, papaya and tobacco plantations. Farmers' Market on Mesa de los Santos - Photo by Sarah Hurlbett |
Ruitoque is usually thermic early in the day until 1:00 or so when the wind begins to build. On our first morning, the winds were light. The morning thermals were strong and the air buoyant, however, and by mid-day, Richi loaded up on the lift and landed in Bucaramanga on the 18th hole of the golf course at Hotel Campestre, our home during the first three nights of the tour. The rest of us waited too long to join him, landing instead in the main LZ or “Antenna Field,” one of many landing areas that were always accessible despite being privately owned. Reminiscent of sites in Italy, the Colombian landowners we encountered were universally supportive and they and/or their children were usually available to help stow our wings. The Ruitoque launch is 30 or so acres in size, grass covered and gently sloping for 200 meters, or so, to the edge of the bluff. As many as 3 wings can launch together, side-by-side. Privately owned and clearly visible from the city limits and surrounding countryside, many local residents and tourists congregate to watch and/or fly tandem, particularly on the weekends. Richi and a small group of commercial tandem pilots, including at least two attractive young women in their late teens or early twenties, generally charge between $50,000 to $60,000 pesos ($25 to $30 US) per flight. Smiles from Columbia - Photo by Sarah Hurlbett |
The local club rents this site under terms of a 3-year contract that is up for renewal this year. Richi is leading efforts to preserve the launch and an adjacent farm from encroaching development. On the weekend, we counted 25 or more wings in the air. During the week, we sometimes had the site to ourselves. On one particularly memorable afternoon, a huge, very dark cloud street formed over launch and extended northward across the valley toward the city. In magic-like air extending in all directions, we flew at cloud base until after sunset. On day 5 we celebrated Sara’s birthday at the farm. This property of approximately 10-acres is located on the eastern edge of the Mesa. It includes two attractive residences landscaped with flowering trees, shrubs and plants with dramatic canyon views. Richi’s mother, Libia, visited us from Bucaramanga and organized wonderful meals, including cake and a celebration for Sara on the night of January 6. Barichara launch - Photo by Sarah Hurlbett |
On day 7 we reluctantly left Libia’s hospitality and, after logging as many as 9 flights and 8 hours of airtime at Ruitoque and Chicamocha, drove two hours south to the picturesque colonial town of Barichara. We stayed two nights there in a four-bedroom house built in the traditional Colombian style with a small, interior, open-air courtyard. Conveniently located directly across the road from Barichara launch, we found ourselves perched on the edge of another impressive escarpment overlooking a broad river valley dotted with cattle ranches and small farms. As we prepared to fly the next morning, a local farmer began grooming the main LZ far below us with a weed-eater. His hard work, unfortunately for me, was prophetic as I quickly flushed while everyone else soared above the city and beyond. Hugo provided a quick retrieval, however, and I returned for a second attempt, following the chulos to 1,000+ AGL, across the city and several miles into the countryside. I landed in a large, grass-covered pasture and was soon joined, first by the landowner and his son, then by Richi, Andy and Hugo. Richi’s landing in the same pasture preceded mine by an hour or so while Andy flew several miles further out of town and recorded the longest flight of the trip. - Photo by Sarah Hurlbett |
That afternoon we began our return to Bucaramanga through the village of San Gil (“Hill”) along the banks of the Rio Fonce where we spent the afternoon white water rafting with Aventura Total, a company owned by Richi’s friend, Tigre. We were driven up stream in a large tour truck fitted with wooden benches and covered by what appeared to be an inverted boat. Although the engine frequently died and our driver ground the gears mercilessly at every turn, we managed to arrive without mishap at the river’s edge. After a brief orientation by our guide, William, we were soon navigating Class III rapids that increase to Class V during the Colombian winter or rainy season. Although “rainy season” may be the technically correct meteorological term, Richi assures me that he flies year-round in weather conditions remarkably similar to those in Santa Barbara and Ojai. It was great fun to be temporarily earth-bound--an interesting contrast to the past several days flying with the chulos. Although most of us had at least some prior rafting experience, these rapids certainly quickened my pulse. After passing into more gentle waters, Richi, Andy and Randall left the boat for 10 minutes or so to float downstream. I didn’t join them--I was too damn cold--but I vowed next time to bring a wet suit so I could play in water that I’m sure was only slightly above freezing. Our last adventure before returning to Bucaramanga took us to the South rim of Chicamocha Canyon, to me one of the most impressive flying sites on the planet. From Chiflas launch, directly across from, and in view of our property, we soared for 2 hours or more with several local tandem pilots and their passengers on strong thermals that took Andy, Randall and me to cloud base at 6,500 feet. Throughout this first tour, we were impressed with Richi and Annie’s organizational skills. Our accommodations were grand, the food was superb, and everywhere we traveled, advanced planning was evident in the relationships established with local restaurants, hotels, craft shops and, most importantly, the many landowners we encountered along the way. Every location and personal contact was previously scouted, approved and verified. While roaming the city of Bucaramanga, Richi was hailed from every street corner. Andres, an old childhood friend we met in an upscale restaurant and bar during our last night in town, referred to Richi as the “Mayor of Bucaramanga.” I am sure he was speaking only partly in jest. Not once during ten days of travel did we feel out of place, threatened or in any way compromised. The Colombian people are gracious, generous and full of humor, often because of the clumsy but always sincere antics of four gringos with limited language skills in a country where English is sometimes heard but seldom spoken fluently. Sara--a non-pilot aside from a couple of lessons and an occasional tandem--took photographs, played golf and lounged by the pool in Bucaramanga. She also explored, shopped and rafted with the best of us, thoroughly enjoying the trip despite her preference for earth-bound activity. We return on or about March 2, 2006, to sign final purchase documents and begin plans for building a home in paradise. For Sara’s photos of the trip, see [url]http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9QbMnLlu0YcU[/url]. For more information on Vuelo Libre tours, including itineraries, see [url]www.eparaglide.com[/url]. Richi, Bob, Annie, Sara, Andy, Randall and Hugo with Chicamocha Canyon behind - Photo by Sarah Hurlbett |
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